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Greece – Part II

Meteora – Monasteries between the Earth and the Sky

On northwest of the lowlands of Thessaly at the foot of Pindos Mountains there is a group of weirdly shaped rocks around 400 metres high, named Meteora. The unusual rocks are very impressive by itself, but if I add that there are six Orthodox monasteries on the peaks, we know that a tourist should not leave out this attraction while visiting Greece.
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The name Meteora originates from Greek word “meteora”, which translates “rised above the ground”. The Turkish word “kalampak” has a similar meaning and the city Kalambaka was named after this word. Kalambaka and Kastraki, which is closer to the monasteries, are the starting point for the tourists who wish to visit the monasteries of Meteora. Both town have many stores, restaurants and hotels. Some hotels in Kalambaka even offer a great view on the rocks that protect the northern part of the town, but the greatest view is on the two monasteries that you can see even from the hotel rooms. It is possible to walk to the monasteries on the old paths that the monks used, but it’s quicker and easier to visit the monasteries by car or by bus. An asphalted road connects all the monasteries of Meteora.
 
There are many explanations about the origins of the rock pillars of Meteora. The most believable theory is that these rocks were on the bottom of the sea that covered the Thessaly lowlands. Because of tectonic movement, the bottom raised a little. Earthquakes, winds and water then shaped these pillars through millions of years into shapes that we see today. The origin may not be totally clear, but there are proofs that people lived in the caves and cracks of these more than 20 giant rock pillars. Even before the religion communities appeared in the 10th century, the monks have made these rocks their home and prayed to God and read Orthodox texts. Two monks came from the holy mountain Athos in 1336 and just a few years later, Atanastasios founded the first monastery, the Big Meteoron. The area is named after the monastery. Because of the inaccessibility of the monastery there are even theories that this first monastery was built by supernatural power and with help of angels. Other monasteries were founded on these rocks a little later. In 16th century there were 24 of them. The monasteries were especially important in time of Turkish occupation (1453 - 1828), when they became the centre of Greek culture and language. They were leading secret schools, where they taught Greek language. Because the monasteries supported Greeks fighting for independence, they were robbed or even burned. They started to fall back in 18th century, partly because the centre of the new Greek country was moved to the south, to Athens. Thessaly stayed outside this circle. And partly because the monasteries weren’t built good enough. Around 1970 they became a tourist attraction. Meteora is also popular as a mountain climbing destination. Maybe modern climbers can understand the skills of these people, who made the caves and rock gaps their home. 
 
People still talk how they built the monasteries in 14th century on these rocks to think about the meaning of life and mightiness of God separated from the world. People could get on these giant rock pillars, where the monasteries were located, only by ropes or ladders up till 20th century, when the stairs were built. The monasteries had special pulleys that we can still see today so they could pull up nets with people or food. This way, they were protected from unwanted guests. They could create priceless art inside the monasteries, like wall paintings, art icons, ornate letters in manuscripts and excellent carvings. People once asked the monks, how often they change the ropes, and they got a simple answer: “When Gods let it rip.” The ropes are still used to pick up food, and some monasteries are also equipped by a cableway.
 
Meteora is the second most important complex of Orthodox monasteries in Greece, right after the holy mountain Athos. There are six monasteries (St. Nicholas Anapaus, Rousanou, Varlaam, Big Metereon, the Trinity and St. Steven) which you can visit for 3 euros at different times of the day and different days, with proper clothing. 
 
  • St. Nicholas Anapaus Monastery is the first monastery that we reach when we enter the world of Metora from Kastraki. The rock that the monastery was built on in the 14th and 15th century, is very small, so it could only grow higher so the churches and other area is built in the higher levels. The word Anapaus isn’t completely clear, but it is assumed that this was the name of one of the first monks who climbed on the rock and built the monastery.
  • Monastery Varlaam (sometimes also Barlaam) is the second oldest in Meteora. It is named after the monk Varlaam, who lived on this rock in the middle of the 14th century and built the first church and first homes for the monks. After his death the peak of the rock was empty for 200 years. After that it finally started to get the shape it has today, which we can admire from the rock of the Great Meteoron.
  • Great Meteoron monastery is the biggest, the oldest and the most important monastery in Metora. It is built on the highest rock, 615 metres above the sea and 413 metres above the Kalambaka and gave the name to the whole area because of its location. It was founded in 1344 and it is also known as the monastery of Christ’s conversion after katholikon (the main church). When the Serbian king joined the monastery, the monastery got its recognition and wealth. There’s an unwritten rule that tourists simply must visit the Great Meteoron if they decide to visit only one monastery.
  • Monastery Rousanou is dedicated to St. Barbara and lies on the lowest rock and is easier accessible. We don’t know where the monastery got its name (maybe after the first monk) and we don’t know when it was founded. Written sources mention it in the year 1545, but the unconfirmed sources, it was founded in 14th century. Rousanou is one of the two female monasteries in Meteora.
  • Monastery the Trinity has the most dramatic and remote position, so it is also the most quiet and the least visited. It was inhabited in 14th century and the written sources mention it in the 15th century. It got famous when it appeared in a James Bond movie.
  • St. Steven monastery lies on the east. We can even see it from Kalambaka. It was founded in 14th century, even though the place was inhabited two centuries earlier. It was uninhabited until 1961 and today it is an active female monastery. It is easily accessible (you can go there across the bridge from the neighboring rock) and it is attractive for people who want to visit a Meteora monastery, but don’t want to climb the stairs.

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